The day started with us waking up at about 3:30 or 4:00 in the morning. Our guide, Kuya Lito, met us by 5:00 and took us to Ivana Port, about 30 minutes to an hour's tricycle ride from Basco. We arrived quite early - I think our names were about the fifth or sixth listed in the boat's manifesto. It's a good thing though because we were able to visit Ivana Church just across the port. By the time we were about to board the boat, there were numerous peope waiting to list their names on the manifesto. I'm not sure if they were able to accommodate all of them.
The boat on the photo below is called a faluwa and is the primary mode of transportation from Batan Island to Sabtang. Notice how it's without outriggers. That's the only way it can withstand the waves of the Pacific Ocean.
Honestly, I dreaded this ride up until I got on the faluwa. Just before we embarked, I remembered all those stories I've read before on how horrid the ride is with all the huge waves tossing the small boat around. I tried to amuse myself instead by observing how many motorcycles they were loading on the small boat and speculating on the purpose of those jackstone-like structures just beyond us. Of course, I didn't tell my fiance, who's also my companion at that time. I tried to look calm. It's just a 30-minutes ride and it'll be over soon.
Fortunately, our ride is calm on the way to Sabtang Island. It got a bit rough though as we approached the port but not so much as to cause panic among the passengers.
There were numerous tricycles parked on the port of Sabtang. One of them is our ride for the island tour.
Our guide/ tricycle driver took us to several villages all with the iconic stone houses and cogon roofs. Honestly, I can't remember all the names of the towns. I know one of them is called Savidug, the other Chavayan. Other than these, they seem to blend together in my mind's eye when I try to remember them. They all look somehow similar. I'm sorry.
Don't get me wrong though. Even if I can't remember the villages' names, they are not boring. The houses may look the same but there is so much character on the windows and doors. Also, I've read somewhere that there were different types of stone house - categorized by the type of roof and the number of floors the house has. What's awesome is that these houses can withstand typhoons. We saw several houses lacking cogon roofs but the walls are still intact.
The villages are not entirely made out of traditional stone houses - there are some modern ones too. The town nearest the port is composed of mostly modern houses.
There's also another version of an honesty store in Sabtang - it's called Conscience Cafe. Too bad, we weren't able to check out what's inside. When we arrived in Sabtang there were already too many tourists flocking the store. By the time we finished our tour, it's already closed.
Aside from the stone houses, there are also several churches scattered among the villages. Some of them were the Sta. Rosa de Lima Chapel in Chavayan, San Vicente Ferrer Church (commonly known as Sabtang Church) just a few steps away from Sabtang Port, and St. Thomas Aquinas Chapel in Savidug.
While most would be satisfied already by just taking photos of the stone houses with them wearing a vakul, it's also interesting to observe how nature and man-made structures intertwined. Every now and then, you'll see small things that just take you by surprise - like an alley covered by an arch made of vines, a small open-air theater (imagine the intimacy of the events played out there), and the quaint bulletin boards scattered here and there (They have no internet in Sabtang. Notices are placed on boards for everyone to read.).
Sometimes the photos feel like the whole island is some sort of park - but when you're there it feels different. You'll know it's a close-knitted community - the villagers know each other. Sometimes I feel like I'm trespassing at their homes. I still wonder how it feels to see a stranger taking photos in front of your house like it's some sort of attraction.
We also got to visit a sleepy fishing village surrounded by mountains.
As we traveled from village to village, we were treated with gorgeous landscapes. It's one of the highlights of the trip for me even though the tricycle ride gets bumpy at times. There's always a suprise just after every sharp turn.
It's a little depressing how if you'll really think hard about it, Sabtang is a poor island. Electricity and water supply are intermittent. Network signals are close to nil. Cement roads from one village to another are damaged, some roads are just dirt. I remember Kuya Lito commenting about this when we were in Vayang Rolling Hills. He said the people are wondering why the local government is building and beautifying the roads only in Batan Island while that of Sabtang remain untended.
One of the most iconic sites in Sabtang is the Chamantad Cove and Tinyan Viewpoint. While Batan boasts of its soft, verdant rolling hills, the terrain of Sabtang is composed more of rocky cliffs. It also has its own rolling hills. Despite not being as green as the ones in Batan, it is equally as breathtaking and stunning.
The road just before you walk towards Chamantad-Tinyan is lined with native huts that serve as stores. Kuya Lito's wife owns one of these huts and it's also where we bought some refreshments before and after we strolled along the trail ahead.
The landscape of Sabtang may be harsh but it has so much character.
Sabtang mostly has rocky beaches; swimming in these are discouraged. But there is one beach where tourists can swim. Morong beach has a long stretch of white sand and the waves there are gentler than in the other parts of the island. This is also where you'll find the Makabuang Arch and the Pananayan Canteen.
I still find it hard to not compare Sabtang with Batan. Batan is milder with its soft rolling hills and the bright green grass. Sabtang has harsher terrain and villages that are more quiet than the towns in Batan. Then again, I know that each has its own charms.
I miss the rides in Sabtang more than that in Batan. The roads may be undeveloped but the view - it's just so picturesque!
© 2026 Danica Eliana Ferino
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