Batanes has always been on top of my bucket list for places I want to visit here in my country. I've spent some time just looking at photos on blogs and social media and admiring how beautiful the place is. And then last year, I finally gave in and bought a ticket for me and my fiance.
While most travel blogs will advise to wait for promo fares to get to Batanes, I'll differ. Yes, airfare is expensive due to the limited airlines operating to this northernmost province of the Philippines. Just book, anyway. Most of the good dates (the ones that are holidays) are embargo dates so the promo doesn't apply. Also, no amount of money will equal to the experiences you'll get in Batanes. That's what I thought anyway as I booked tickets with regular fares. I didn't regret it.
TIP: For flights going to Batanes, pick window seats on the rightmost side of the plane (seats D to F, depending on the type of plane you'll board). You'll be treated with amazing backdrops of Batanes as the plane lands. On flights going back to Manila, pick seat A.
Here's a video to prove my point.
Our Batanes trip was on April 28 to May 3, 2017, summer season in the Philippines. It's usually advised to visit Batanes from January to early June so there would be lesser chance of rain. But when our plane landed in Basco Airport, it was drizzling. The heavy clouds showed no sign of clearing up. I feared that our trip would be ruined.
As soon as we finished our registration at the airport, we were greeted by some staff of Marfel's Lodge (that's where we had our accommodation in Basco). A few hours after, Kuya Lito Alcantara, our guide for the North and South Batan, picked us up to start the tour. Thankfully, the rain stopped by that time.
Our first stop for the North Batan tour is Tukon Church, which is also known as Mt. Carmel Chapel. The little chapel's design is based on the traditional Ivatan stone houses. I've read that the Abad family built the church and the paintings inside were done by them. Unfortunately, the roof of the chapel was destroyed by a typhoon last year and is still under repair. The ceiling with the hand-painted images of the province's patron saints is also gone. Despite that, the facade is still intact and the church is still functional and beautiful. The interior was being decorated for a wedding when we visited.
On a side note, the Abad family also owns Fundacion Pacita, the only hotel in Batanes. It's not accessible, though, for day trips. You'll need to stay at the hotel or eat at their cafe to be able to visit.
The first two photos below are taken by Kuya Lito.
A short distance from Mt. Carmel Chapel lies PAG-ASA Weather station, also known as Tukon Radar Station. After we entered the gate, we were greeted by a goat silently grazing inside the property.
The damage caused by the typhoon last September is also evident here. The huge satellite dish was blown off and remains broken until the time we were there. For now, the station is still functional, using the small satellite dish instead to monitor weather conditions. Kuya Lito also showed us the other equipments there. There's a sphere that measures the intensity of sunlight. He said that it was so sunny the day before we arrived, the sphere even burned the strip of thick paper below it. He's even wondering why it rained suddenly.
These are andesite rocks spewed by the now dormant volcano, Mt. Iraya, decades ago. The strong, constant waves of the Pacific Ocean polished the boulders and made it what it is today. Tourists are discouraged to approach the waters since it is too strong.
Valugan boulder beach is also known as Chanpan beach.
Although it is not the last destination for the North Batan tour, Kuya Lito decided to stop our adventures for the day. The clouds were already too imposing and rain is almost imminent any minute. We continued the tour on our fourth day in Batanes, just after returning from Sabtang Island. Good thing, it was sunny that time. It's perfect weather for Kuya Lito's photography.
Also known as Basco Cathedral, it is the first Catholic church built in Batanes. I'm not really a Catholic, though, but there are so many churches/ chapels there and it's always nice to appreciate the architecture.
Basco lighthouse stands on Naidi Hills and is one of the major landmarks of the town. The old Bunker's Cafe lies beside it but is now temporarily closed for renovation.
The viewdeck commands an unobstructed view of the imposing Mt. Iraya with the quaint town of Basco underneath...
... and the majestic expanse of the Pacific Ocean.
Oh, to walk this path again!
I've been stuck for a while thinking of how to describe Vayang Rolling Hills. I still can't. Really. I've seen numerous photos of this place but it is so much different when you're right there, standing on one of the hills and taking that glorious view. It's surreal!
A word of caution: it is windy here. Hold on to your hat and check your balance.The slopes may look gentle, but it is a bit steep. It won't be good to roll over the hills because of the cow manure. :)
Honestly, this is where I realized that the "expensive" airfare is so worth it. I'd come back here again even without the promos. Seriously. Being right here is so much different than just looking at the photos.
For our last stop, Kuya Lito took us to the Km 0000 marker. Right across it is the provincial capitol.
Exploring the town is not part of the tour proper but I'm including this here since it is in North Batan.
The town itself is small - you can cover almost all of it with a bike. We did a quick stroll on our last afternoon in Batanes.
Yaru nu Artes Ivatan is an artists' cooperative and is the only gallery in Batanes. They also sell souvenirs.
On Basco, we stayed at Marfel's Lodge Annex homestay. Marfel's Lodge has several branches but I think the annex is cozier than the others. The ambiance is homier and the house has its own lawn where you can lounge around during hot afternoons. They also rent their bikes for a minimum fee.
Basco has several restaurants - there were two that I really liked. The first one is Casa Napoli. While it may seem weird to eat Pizza in Batanes, their meals are pretty good - especially the Spaghetti Bolognese.
Octagon Bed and Dine is just a short walk away from Marfel Annex. They serve authentic Ivatan cuisine as well as coconut crab. The food here is good albeit a little pricier.
Posted on the photos below are some important contact numbers in Batanes.
Lito Alcantara (North and South Batan tricycle tours): 639182167440
Marfel Lodge: 639175874493
Airports always have a different feel when it's your flight back home. It breaks my heart to leave.
Dios Mamajes, Batanes! I'll see you again someday.
© 2026 Danica Eliana Ferino
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